Alpinesavvy tether. Climb better, smarter, and safer with Alpinesavvy.

Alpinesavvy tether. You can move along the top rail without having to unclip to move past anything (other than your partner). Feb 16, 2019 · Of course, there are some other options to attach your tether carabiner. Girth hitch an aid climbing fifi ihook to an adjustable tether. Most people think only your dominant hand tether needs to be the perfect length, and the length of the other one doesn’t really matter. The Oct 1, 2020 · Attach a locking carabiner and rappel device to the double loop, and your anchor tether locking carabiner to the end of the single loop. Pop the fifi, take an (exciting!) swing, repeat as necessary. One simple way to make tethers is simply with 5 or 6 mm cord. The Alpinesavvy web gnomes looked carefully at the technical documentation for harnesses from Black Diamond, Petzl, and Edelrid. Say that you’re right handed. Here’s a DIY alternative; make your own for about 30 minutes of time and $10 in materials. But what about that horizontal rope strand on the top? Aug 25, 2022 · There are lots of different approaches for rigging your big wall haul bags. Connect with Albin on Instagram: @albinthunander. Oct 13, 2024 · This noggin-scratcher was solved in real life by Albin Thunander. Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Oct 13, 2023 · “Dang it, which rope strand do we need to pull, I forgot!” Here's a simple way to remember. Here is a simple, fast and unconventional way to get past the knot. Oct 26, 2022 · Tethers are not for everyone, but many people find their instant adjustability to be handy in lots of different climbing situations. Apr 13, 2022 · 1 - Make a tether (aka daisy) The purpose of the tether is to 1) test placements if needed, and 2) hold your weight when you move the ladder to a higher gear placement. No worries! Use gear tethers to hang your extra stuff outside of your bag and keep it accessible. Most major gear companies offer some version of a tool tether. Because you made a loop, if any anchor fails, everything won't slip off of one end of the rope. ALPINESAVVY. Inspiring mountain photography. Some old school methods still work pretty well, but there are a few more modern approaches that might make things a lot easier. COM @ALPINESAVVY f12 TOP CLIMBING TIPS FROM ALPINESAVVY Double loop bowline for a rappel tether Using a rappel extension is a good idea for a lot of reasons. Oct 5, 2024 · Need to shorten your connection to the anchor when using a tether? It's common to unclip and reclip your locking carabiner, but this can increase the chances of clipping it incorrectly. Mark says: have them both at the same length. This lets you clip both your tether carabiner and your ladder carabiner into the same hole. Climbing How To: The nice quick way to lower a climber when belaying in guide mode. As you start your double rope rappel, clip your tether carabiner to the rope that needs to get pulled. Put the sewn bar tacks in about the middle. . Here's a low cost DIY version, using the cleverly designed Kong Slyde. Newer Petzl ascenders have one large hole in the bottom instead of one large and one small. Here's a simple and more secure method. I first heard of this trick from @tiffany_hensley, thanks Tiffany! Apr 21, 2022 · Having a simple, versatile system for rigging your ladders and tethers is good practice for efficient big wall leading. Jun 2, 2024 · Super strong, redundant everywhere, but no built in tether. None of these manufacturers give a warning against attaching a tether to the belay loop. Take a 120 cm sling. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. Here's how to do it. Jul 20, 2024 · A Klemheist is a useful friction hitch / rope grabber, but DANG, have you ever tried to use it to actually go up to fixed rope? Tied in the normal way, that sucker bites down hard and is really difficult to slide! Here’s a clever variation that gives adequate grab on the rope, and is much easier to slide when you need to move up. (If you want a tether, take another 120 cm sling, girth hitch it to your harness, and clip that into the anchor. They cost around $50. Here's one way to set it up, and some specific gear recommendations. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This gives you a strong connection, double loop redundancy, and it's easy to untie when you're done. The Alfifi - adjustable tether for big wall climbing A adjustable tether / lanyard that lets you change the the length when weighted is VERY handy for aid climbing. If doing so is “wrong”, do you think the top harness manufacturers might warn against it in their technical documentation? Apr 8, 2025 · Ice tool tethers are pretty standard on longer alpine routes for good reason - a dropped tool from on a long, high route can be a serious problem. But you never want to do this on an “open” sling, as the rope can easily become completely unclipped from the carabiner without you noticing. Simply pull it over your back and shoulder and down into your pack, tarp, rope bag, or whatever. Feb 12, 2019 · Big wall ace Mark Hudon shared a good tip with me. Adjustable tethers have been Climb better, smarter, and safer with Alpinesavvy. (Yes, belay loop is fine, but Apr 28, 2020 · Having a rubber band or something similar to prevent the bottom carabiner on a sport climbing quickdraw from rotating is fine. Some of the more specialized ones can be quite expensive. Download GPS tracks for more than 70 routes in the Pacific Northwest. Curated instructional videos. Aug 2, 2024 · If you want to save a few carabiners, can you tie a sling directly to a picket hole? Is it going to be strong enough to catch a fall or use as a anchor in crevasse rescue? I did the testing, and have a broken picket to prove it. Over 500 FREE tips and navigation resources for climbing and mountaineering. Jul 27, 2024 · Here’s a DIY gear hack that’s handy when cleaning a traversing aid pitch, or maybe a overhanging sport route. COM May 15, 2024 · The Alpinesavvy web gnomes looked carefully at the technical documentation for harnesses from Black Diamond, Petzl, and Edelrid. Jun 12, 2025 · The “4 to 1” ratio is a guideline of how many single length and double length slings you might want to carry on a typical alpine route. Jun 8, 2025 · When climbing up a fixed rope with an ascender, it's important to properly adjust the length of the tether between your harness and the ascender. You could also clip your ladder carabiner to your tether locker, but I find having them separated with a quick link is cleaner and less Jun 25, 2020 · Sewn pocket daisy chains are designed for aid climbing, have a strength of only about 3 kN between the pockets, and have some limitations for use as a lanyard and definitely in anchor systems. ) Double length sewn runner girth hitched through the harness tie in points, overhand knot tied for rappel carabiner and device, locker clipped to end. Albin is a Swedish IFMGA Guide Candidate, and he shared with me the details of how he dealt with this. You can usually find him in the mountains around Chamonix. Aug 29, 2018 · It’s rare, but you might someday find yourself having to rappel two full rope lengths on a single strand. Oct 12, 2023 · Here's a simple way to quickly flake your rope. Here’s a crafty way to tie it with a double loop bowline. Some people choose to use these, occasionally incorrectly, so let's learn about this gear and some of the drawbacks. If you do them wrong, you could die. Reason: When ascending, whatever way the route goes, you should lead with that hand. If the pitch goes pretty much straight up or Aug 17, 2018 · On a big wall, not everything is going to fit into your haul bag. Girth hitch this sling to your belay loop. One good approach: use designated carabiners, one pair for leading and one pair for your tethers. Tie two overhand knots in the sling, each one about 10 inches / 25 cm away from the ends. Now you can easily transfer your weight on to the gear, which lets you unclip your quickdraw and/or the rope. Oct 20, 2023 · Use the upper rail to clip yourself with a tether, and the bottom rail to clip all your gear. Premium Members get even more. You're ready to rappel. Join my email - get a Premium Article samplerWarning: Climbing is dangerous. Jan 8, 2024 · Continuing our dissection of ski mountaineering rappel systems, we explore various options for rappel extensions/tethers and third hands. . hzefnqh zhflp fhjnizo csna cqnkfbli bjlfrh ekloiqsu svoqvn zxljr nfgf