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<h1 class="text-text-2 mb-2 leading-8 text-xl lg:text-2xl lg:leading-9 font-bold">Climbing sling lengths reddit. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic .</h1>
<span class="flex font-bold text-text-link text-xs mt-4"><span class="transition-colors duration-300 ease-out-quart cursor-pointer focus:outline-none text-text-link flex items-center">Climbing sling lengths reddit In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. For this review, we tested the majority of the slings in single-length. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. Pad the tree and use it as a monolith. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. Extra long extension or anchors. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. It just tends to get in the way. As others have said. One very big plus of having an equalized point is that it will eliminate or atleast reduce the master point sliding back and forth caused by the climber climbing sidways. I don't mess with alpine draws at all because almost all of my placements are cams and if I extend those placements, I always use a full 60cm sling to do so. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. shoulder lengths (1 locker apiece), 2 sport draws, 25' of cordelette, at least one of the dbl shoulder slings from knotted tube webbing. Those cam placements are surely jankier than the huge trees next to them. Get a 100ft static 8mm line. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so See full list on outdoorgearlab. I extend my cam placements with 60cm slings racked over-the-shoulder with a single carabiner clipped in. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. For the Dragons I either use them as they are (in extended mode), or extend just using a regular quickdraw about 80% of the time (extended mode plus a quickdraw already gives about 50cm of extension). Was gonna use 2 slings to maintain contact as I climb, sort of leap frogging them, idk what thats called. Two reasons: 1)If the bolts are spaced further apart it is possible to create an obtuse triangle between the knot, creating greater forces at the knot and on the bolts. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). Depends on your local climbing area. I always carry prussik cord with me when climbing outdoors, because I like the option to go hands free on rappel, and have anchor building material. Additionally, the length should allow you to extend the rappel anchor away from any potential rope drag or hazards. it depends on where you're climbing. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. Say I get to the chains of a sport route and find a comfortable stance to set my rappel, but the only soft gear I have with me is a 120cm sling that is too long to use as an anchor. Dynema is amazing. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. The home of Climbing on reddit. I never like climbing past the piece and seeing the rope pulling taut on the cam. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. e. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket(s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. The rope length is also MUCH longer so 30% rope stretch gives a sizable catching distance. Maybe I just use them because I have them. stretchy rope, that decelerates your over a much greater distance. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. Sling Length. What should my next quickdraw purchases be? Individuals with different lengths of webbing? Thread it through your tie in points, then tie an overhand. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). 6 cm) or, 20" (50 Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. You're better off with the rope cloved to the other bolt. If you’re considering slings for hanging a ring to a hard point, I usually carry at least one single length and one double. Also, if you really don't trust the bolts you shouldn't be climbing on them. This version has 2 arms, one is a fixed length and designed to be used to extend your rappel (though you can use it as an anchor as well), and the other arm is longer with an ascender type device that you can use to adjust the length. Doubling it up would make it too short. I climb in the Gunks where there is a fair mix of tree anchors, bolted anchors, and gear anchors. Yeh it's fine, I just girth hitch one through my tie-in loop with a carabiner the other end. It's doubled around my waist so there's a bight and two ends. Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Read “Climbing Anchors” by John long. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. I carry 21' of 7mm cord because i feel it can handle all of these applications and gives me the best options for extending belays, finding comfortable stances, etc. Rappel Length: You'll also need to consider the length of rappels on the routes you're climbing. What is the best way to adjust that long sling to be the perfect length so that I can comfortably go into the anchor direct? I attach my chalk bag with an untied length of 6-7mm cord. I just recently got one. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. When discussing sling length it helps to understand that sling length is measured from the middle of the pouch to the release tab, which approximates a sling in a loaded configuration (folded in half). This is my preferred method. The clipping feel is incredible. And yes we are scared of falling. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. If it’s really wandery I’ll extend even further with either a single-length or (rarely) with a double-length sling. I carry a few alpine draws when I climb sport, but when I clean I still go for the PAS to go in direct. Then I take my double lengths, fold in half, and then overhand them all together. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. My standard draw arsenal is 6 alpine draws, 5 single length and 2 double lengths over my shoulder. I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. The force is distributed over the length of the sling/cord, so the longer the cord the more it can withstand. Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. -Prussik cord with a locker. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. On the up, it can be used to extend. Just wondering how many Alpine Draws, Quick Draws, and Single-Biner slings you guys carry for normal single pitch cragging? I normally have 5 single length alpines, 1 double length alpine, and one single length alpine with lockers on my harness - no empty or single biner slings or QDs. While these are the most common uses for slings, only your creativity can limit the potential they have while climbing. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. for slings the bare minimum i'l have in my pack is: 8 shoulder lengths (2 with light weight lockers), 2-4 dbl. Unless you really fuck something up any stretch in the anchor should be negligible compared to the stretch in the rope (i. When cleaning routes with bolted anchors its a lot easier to clip in using a PAS or sling than it is messing with a clove hitch while trying to clean the anchor and the rap/lower off. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. I have pretty much all of the rest of the gear for sport climbing though. Lengths: 12" (25. Sling length is probably the most commonly discussed attribute of a sling. Otherwise use a master point (an 8 is better than an overhand if you have the slack, easier to untie). I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Slings, especially dyneema can get worn quite fast. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. Very unlikely of course. I haven't used really expensive ones like the Spirits or the BD Livewire and don't really feel like I'm missing anything. 5-6 meters) of webbing can provide you with versatility in constructing anchors. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. The only time I would take cordelette is if I'm in a more adventurous area and I may have to cut my cord to make rap anchors on the descent. So why not buy… Item Description Number Cost Link Rope Edelweiss Rocklight II Climbing Rope - 9. Apr 9, 2024 · There is also the possibility of using a snake/rabbit type sling ie single strand with a loop in each end, eg 110 cm which can be used full length, halved with both ends clipped together, or "girth hitched" around a natural thread etc. In my opinion, the only reason to use a sliding x is if you're climbing multiple routes on the same anchors and need the direction of pull to change. If you have other suggestions I am open While in the pack to-and-from the crag, I take all the shoulder length slings and stack them together and tie a big overhand knot in the middle with them. You could also girth the sling to your harness and tie an overhand to adjust the length. Keep slack out of your static anchors. 4 cm), 16" (40. Different quantities/lengths of cord or sling. com Jul 5, 2020 · 1 Double length dyneem sling I feel like it’s a little much but I use most of them for at least half the pitches. The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. As a general guideline, having at least 15-20 feet (4. However a single snake sling can only be used full length to extend something else. I'm also assuming you're talking about polyester round slings, rather than climbing slings? The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. The D:d ratio comments above are valid, but are usually spoken about in terms of wire rope. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. You’ll figure it out, you just need a better understanding of the basics. On two bolts I usually clove to the master point of a knotted double length sling. keeps them from snagging the gear in the bag or making huge rat's nests. -quad length sling. ) Just don't go climbing over it full length, and falling directly on it (although it could probably take that). A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems like a good idea. This is just like setting a two bolt anchor except with your harness at the master point. The retailer I buy off is only offering either 8mm or 11mm in width. A harness + nylon sling + carabiner IMHO is super dangerous if you fall any distance before it catches: there's no give! In contrast, sport climbing involves falls onto "dynamic," i. Its jus so easy to go "clip-clip-clip-PullDown-MasterpointKnot-Done" and I always carry a few extra double length slings in case of something like having to build a four or five piece anchor. They are designed to be carried on your harness gear loops just like a normal quickdraw, which gives you quick and easy access to shoulder length slings. If you notice in the link it refers to sport climbing as well as mountaineering. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. Available in three lengths and with color coded slings; these long draws are made up of two Bravo carabiners joined by an 11 mm Monster Sling. In nylon slings, the diameter of the nylon fibres inside the sling is tiny, so you can get away with much sharper bends, like shackle pins etc. . All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. 8mm (70m) Looking at purchasing slings to make my own alpine/extendable draws. Those slings aren’t nearly long enough to reduce angles enough. Most people I know use a sling or two to clip into the anchor setup. All that being said, since many people use cord to resling their old nuts, cams, hexes I would do some research, but you will be fine. A single can work over most 4x6 rigs but is often tight to do with 1 beaner. I carry 4-6 25cm quickdraws for clipping nuts/tricams/bolts. haha true that, climbing with someone with DIY gear. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ 1. Personally, I don't like climbing with a tether. The FB-Sling friction knot is my goto if I have to use a sling for a friction knot. I also like the trick where I have one or two double lengths over the opposite shoulder, doubled up with a carabiner and under the single length sling-sling. You will find that using a single sling for pas and for other purposes is not practical as you will spend unnecessary time tying and untying knots rather than climbing! And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. Sep 1, 2023 · Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. The only concern I have is the length of the bunny ears. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. I would make them longer and the "power point" shorter. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. I like the space that it frees up on the harness, and also the added location to grab a sling when needed. Also make sure you understand the various sling tension / sling angle configurations and use what is best for your given situation. Regarding other soft goods, I use Edding 3000 to mark the label only or the fixation rubber for the rope biner on Quickdraws. Thanks in advance, everyone. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. You can make each end a different length to make rappelling easier. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. Even when a section is pretty straight, I lean towards adding a floppy dyneema quickdraw. Good luck! Apr 9, 2024 · There is also the possibility of using a snake/rabbit type sling ie single strand with a loop in each end, eg 110 cm which can be used full length, halved with both ends clipped together, or "girth hitched" around a natural thread etc. You can absolutely do all of that with a couple of long slings, but I like the easy length adjustability. I've found webbing for a few cents per foot in various thicknesses, and I've read that water knots are pretty damn strong in webbing. It also gives you a dynamic element in the case of catching a fall onto the anchor. The doubles are accessed by unclipping and pulling out from under the single length. This is the length that we put into use. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema However, I personally prefer a quad length 10cm sling over my cordelette 95% of the time for building anchors because it is lighter and less bulky. 6 million pounds. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. I use the two ends to tie a sheet bend in the bight. As I am new to this, just seeking advice in regards to which width is better suited for draws. Like everyone else, the Petzl Djinn are my favorite so far. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Factors like the type of climbing, the length and type of route, the rock and character of the climbing area and your personal climbing style all play a role in how you set up your rack. I like it for cleaning a sport route, setting up a top rope anchor, and starting a rappel. A basic trad rack might include 12 single-length slings, 4 to 6 double-length slings and 2 triples (or 2 cordelettes) for the anchors. -double length sling. I, personally, LOVE using a cordalette (or triple length sling). Being doubled gives me plenty of length for Prusiks, load releasable knots, etc. With a 20' cordelette anchor, thats a lot of distance to displace force. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. They are heavy, but burly. Or two singles. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. It is maybe slightly bulky, but I haven't found it to be an issue. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. This doubles as a redundant (minimum) rope length indicator: one thick ring = 50 m, a small one = 10 m. Additionally, I have seen some say that prusiks should be 5-6' in length and other say you should always have at least one prusik that is 10-11' in length. I have only ever seen 5-6' prusiks used as a 3rd hand while abseiling or rappelling. 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