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<h2>Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit.
See full list on rei.</h2>
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<span class="navlink ln-local-resources">Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit Apr 23, 2022 · Nuts, Hexes and Tricams for Rock Climbinghttps://rockclimb. Full set of BD nuts (including the smallest three sizes). Then go for the cams. If this doesn't work, tap it from below with your nut tool. cams . The hex is meant to be able to be placed in 4 different attitudes. In which case, you can either put them on the same carabiner with your big nuts (for small hexes), or clip them further back on your harness on their own separate carabiner (for bigger sizes). While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Write for UKC Gear Latest Gear Gear News Gear Reviews Competitions Latest Deals Product Videos 1. If you're going into the mountains (check out the Darrans!) or doing other multipitch you'll likely want more than a single rack, but a single will get you up most routes at crags What do you have so far? you could get some quickdraws or a set of nuts/hexes or 1 cam for about the same price. So, one could argue that each hex has the benefit of being more diverse. Tighten first nut down to brass, tighten second nut to first nut. Hexes are cheaper than cams, cams can "walk" hexes don't, they are lighter than a cam and can take a beating especially if you do chimney climbs alot. For unknown long climbs . These were fiddly to place for freeclimbing and tended to lift out but could still be used for aid climbing. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. Pull the nut down into the constriction, paying attention to the surface contact between the nut and the rock. If getting hexes I would say DMM torque nuts are the most versatile (but also seem engineered for maximum cowbell). yosemite) then they are nice i think. you also spend a lot of time faffing about at first, going up a size, then down two sizes then back up to the first size. Grab a set of nuts to start and practice placement. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. Also there has been talk about buying whole DMM torque set (4 pieces) to supplement our cams for belays, and save cams for hard climbing. Personally, I started with a set of BD nuts and a yellow and orange Metolius power cam. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. Set of DMM offset nuts. Where as your standard nut has two. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . Most of the time, you'll only be carrying one or two hexes. One of the best value for climbing nuts is the full set of Black Diamond Stoppers, which come in at $119. Folks have explained to you the nut but the wired hex is older. Fuck the hexes off. I usually bring a few hexes with me if I read in the guide book that they are helpful but I like the versatility of a cam more. Oct 31, 2024 · If you're using climbing nuts, you'll probably want to purchase a nut tool to help retrieve wedged nuts and stuck cams. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. For everyday cragging, you won't miss them. Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The main advantage of hexes is they will work in dirty, wet or icy cracks where cams are likely to slide out. Read Time - 9 minutes. Jan 8, 2024 · In the late 1980s into the 1990s in UK climbing, there was a decisive move away from a mix of individually racked hexes of all sizes & medium nuts on cord towards using only larger hexes, plus nuts on wire (with quickdraws) due to ease of use. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). If that doesn't work either, hold your nut tool under the nut and hit it with a big hex. May 27, 2025 · I remember my insecurity of going from pins/nuts to just nuts in the early 1970's, but that was a matter of ethics, so I did everything I could to eliminate pins from the rack. M10 is slightly larger than 3/8". Place the nut with the cable facing in the direction of pull if you were to take a fall, which is generally down and slightly out. The downside being that hexes are easier to place incorrectly. The home of Climbing on reddit. In the sizes that nuts are available on wire, then I think nuts are better, but if the question were hexes versus cams, when getting to say a 2. The document has moved here. I have a set of small dmm offsets I got on sale and they’ve proven handy but not much more than regular nuts. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. I love my torque nuts, but in the end it's best if you're familiar with as many types of gear as possible, so collect a variety (Including hexes which many people won't/don't know how to Offset cams are nice for flaring pin scars-- if you climb places where this is common (e. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit different cracks and offer versatile protection. Double Cap. This! If you are doing TR only, they are my favorite hexes and you can set up probably any TR with just hexes and nuts - but they can be a pain to use in "cam mode" with just one hand. Totems are expensive but nice to have in the smaller sizes. The rest of the nuts will slide to the bottom of the carabiner as you're inserting the piece. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. Climbing nuts, also known as chocks or stoppers, are passive protection devices that wedge into cracks to secure the climber's rope. Cams from 000-4 and doubles form 0. video-----Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the pro I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. Apologies again for the firehose of comments, I like to nerd out about climbing nuts and hexes. you learn a lot about how the rock works, and how to find a good stance to place from. I will be picking up one to fill the gap between by DMM's and sets of nuts. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Jun 21, 2022 · It's because hexes are best thought of (and most often used as) giant nuts (which can be used as cams in some situations), whereas tricams are best thought of as cams and used as such. Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. 5. Trying to master my gear placement though. Depends where you'll be climbing. We like to compliment the Black Diamond Stoppers with a set of offset nuts. com There are also definitely some climbing areas I've been at where having the widest diversity in gear types was ideal, since there can be times where a hex is quicker, easier, and more secure than a cam. A gift cert to a climbing supply store? There are a few cool climbing movies on netflix watch instantly but I don't know what I would suggest to buy(180 degrees south, to the limit[am limit in german]). Apr 13, 2025 · How much does a full rack of climbing nuts cost? A full rack of climbing nuts will cost around $120. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. and everything else necessary for basic trad climbing (nut tool, non-lockers, lockers, etc. Hexes are lighter, cheaper, and scare the bears away. May 2020. just cams more a matter of flexibility. Share gear, it's muuuuuuch cheaper this way too. Get a hex head bolt that fits the inner threads and two nuts. 5” for six-sided hexes. In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. No strong opinion about harnesses, helmets and ropes yet. Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. . Hexes can also be placed like nuts although only along their wide axis. 5 and 5. The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. if the rock type is suited to offsets have a set of theirs also. offsets nuts are really nice to have Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. Obviously this resulted in carrying more equipment so was heartily encouraged by gear manufacturers. In Valle orco, which is my go to climbing spot, thin cracks have a lot of constrictions and nuts work ok on them most of the time. You could also probably get away with just hexes and no cams. While there are several different types of passive pro, including hexes, chocks, and Tricams, the most common type is the nut, also called a stopper. The Phoenix (13a) for example. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. They do also work in irregular/chossy/slimy cracks. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. if you can place a hex = elephant bomb proof! but the weight, take only what you expect to place size 3 & 6 if you have a full set of nuts. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. 5 cam or over then it would be a financial decision for me. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. American climber here who’s beginner rack started with BD nuts. Often, a little wiggle will unseat the nut, enabling it to be pushed up and out. And I really love them nuts. CLIMBING NUTS, CAMS AND HEXES. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Sport draws. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to them so presumably there is a geological feature there that eats them as well. Nuts and hexes (although I dislike hexes) are perfectly adequate and safe. The DMM ones are the best on the market right now, in my opinion. 1. Nuts Buying Guide. BD makes the holes kind of small for this. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. Active and passive placement. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. The slings make it easier to set both camming options on the hex. Therefore we've been thinking on buying maybe one big Hex or blue DMM's torque nut just in case we might need something so big for the route. 4 to 3 Abalaks seems like a good way to expand my rack on the cheap especially on the smaller sizes of active pro. My opinions about a cam is that they are quicker to place, have much more room for a poorly judged crack width ("pretty sure its the blue hex, fuck, nope, lets try the purple, fuck that's way too big, maybe if i spin the blue one in this direction, shit my arm is tired, damn legs are shaking The Rockcentrics do come in more sizes, but mostly on the smaller end of the scale. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango I have a full set of wild country hexes. I agree. If you already have another set of hexes, you can cut the wires and resling them with >/= 5mm cord. Depends on what you are climbing but a standard set of nuts, offsets, 0-5 (silver - big blue) dragons if you have them and maybe the green and red hexes would be mostly more than adequate. Moved Permanently. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. Also have a few micros of offsets & stopper/rock/nuts. I haven't used them for furniture, but they're what rock climbing gyms use to attach plastic holds to the plywood walls. 5 and #0. Alpine draws. Those holds (in good gyms) are moved monthly or so. Find it difficult to justify standing still for ages trying to fiddle in nuts or hex's when a cam can be placed in seconds. As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I suspect it's from earlier then that. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. 1-pink tricam. Worked perfect to cover plenty of placement options and get me comfortable before going full trad. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. Nuts/hexes - I don't own any hexes personally but they're a favorite to some. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. People learn with nuts, thus hexes get bought as giant nuts. A set from 0. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977. ETA: If you do get hexes, get the WC rockcentrics or DMM torque nuts. 75-2. Hexes are an old type of climbing protection that are seldom seen on climber's racks since the introduction of cams. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. In contrast, I find the issue of nuts/cams vs. Setting I guess it really depends on the type of climbing you do. 3-1 (black->blue) weighs less than a #0. For large cracks they are great. ) Standard vs Metric: Standard 3/8" bolts are what we use in the US, Metric M10 bolts and t-nuts are used in the UK and Europe. it does mean that you get way better at eyeballing placements though. Apr 27, 2022 · A wave of articles followed: Robbins’ “Nuts to You” in the Californiabased climbing magazine Summit; Tom Frost’s “Preserving the Cracks” in the 1972 American Alpine Journal; and perhaps most eloquently, Doug Robinson’s “The Whole Natural Art of Protection” in one of clean climbing’s holy scripts, the 1972 Chouinard Equipment I did an "apprenticeship" if you will, climbing relatively short, easy routes only using hexes and wires. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. If you plan on getting into leading, skip these and just get a set of cams - they will be way more useful. One thing to note is that if you have a full set of DMM Wallnuts, you can expand your nut selection by getting Wild Country Rocks sizes 12, 13, and 14. 95. 5mm cord appears to be fairly common for this application, but use the thickest cord that will fit. I have a super standard rack, full set of WC nuts and WC cams from . It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. Next time you have a route with a long approach that uses a double rack, take the tricams instead of the second set. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. I’m climbing in red rock Different regions/crags/climbs will prefer certain sizes, but you cant go wrong with a single rack i. e. Over our years of testing, we've amassed quite a collection of climbing gear and have plenty of recommendations, from the top-rated climbing harnessess and ropes to belay devices and climbing helmets . There's several reddit threads about building racks and other brand analyses. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. I can confirm that they’re inferior to most other nuts. Generally use whatever I can place fastest, so use cams regularly, unless there is a slot which I can see a nut will just slip into without faffing. Anyone who says that stoppers are all the same, have never climbed pitches that have finicky gear and aren’t protectable without good nut placements. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. In the end for most use cases the halfnuts are probably fine but maybe not optimal. Climbing technology CiPe seems similar, didn't handle one yet. 5-3 C4 cam size. The weight however can not be complained about at all To be removed from a crack, a nut will need to reverse the way it went in. The back story to this post is that a friend argues that a hex could be places where a cam could. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. However, they do have advantages over cams in certain situations. Usually one or two hits and it rattles loose. And yes we are scared of falling. Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. set of nuts. This protection, also called pro, is placed in cracks and fissures as you climb up, and then removed, or cleaned, when you’re done, so all you leave on the rock is a few chalk marks. 75. My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. Ughhhhh, the point of the hex has apparently been lost on everyone since they came out in the 70's. Oct 28, 2016 · Trad climbing requires a large and somewhat complex set of gear that’s used instead of bolts to stop a fall. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. But for the record; things harder than I'll ever climb were established with nuts and hexes. Feb 20, 2021 · In short, cams will go most places hexes will go (more quickly and easily), but hexes won't go a lot of places cams will. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Instead of spring-loaded lobes, hexes rely on the offset sling to generate the camming action by rotating them forward when loaded. 6. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. Which neither of us own. Tricams - useful for horizontal cracks and cheaper than regular cams. Put the nuts on the bolt and thread into the brass insert. Because they have no movable parts to adjust for size, getting the fit right is a little more tricky than it is when placing a cam. Sep 14, 2007 · Prefer Nuts when the placement is good and quick. Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. A dab of wood glue in the "teeth" of the t-nut (the ones that bite the flat piece, not the threads) isn't a bad idea to cut down on the odds of it moving. Although some people prefer to use hexes instead of the larger size nuts. They are also lighter than the equivalent sized cam. 3/8" bolts will actually work in M10 t-nuts, but because the Standard 3/8" bolt shaft is a little smaller than a Metric M10 bolt shaft, a Standard bolt in a Metric t-nut is a bit more likely to strip out the threads. Edelrid protect and Beal unicore seems interesting, my current Simond triple rated rope is holding well and nice to handle, decently light too, and much cheaper than the competition. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). I think they’re just what we buy here and then don’t think about it. See full list on rei. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. g. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . Black Diamond Offset Stoppers will work perfectly as a Sep 16, 2011 · In reply to derms: Seems a bit of an "apple versus Pears" type question. If you must carry a full rack, they can be racked in groups of 2-4 per carabiner. Black diamond is the standard. A couple ropes. Double up 2-7. Their alloy offset nuts are also incredible. You can hammer them into icy cracks. 7). 3 to 3 and a set of nuts. 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