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body {
background-color:#ffffff;
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body, .cfsbdyfnt {
font-family: 'Oswald', sans-serif;
font-size: 18px;
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h1, h2, h3, h4, h5, h5, .cfsttlfnt {
font-family: 'Playfair Display', serif;
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a{color:rgba(255,255,255,0)!important;background:url();background-repeat:no-repeat;background-size:84%;width:240px;height:155px;color:rgba(255,255,255,0);font-size:0;background-position:center;padding-bottom:30px}#outhdr .cfshznav .nav>:nth-child(4) a:hover{background:url(),transparent!important;background-size:89%!important;background-repeat:no-repeat!important;background-position:center!important}#outhdr .cfshznav .nav>:nth-child(4):hover{background:transparent!important}#outhdr .js-clingify-locked{background:#426965!important}#outhdr .js-clingify-locked .navbar{background:#426965!important}#outhdr .js-clingify-locked .nav{padding:5px 0 0 0}#outhdr .js-clingify-locked .nav a{color:#fff!important;padding-top:2em!important;padding-bottom:!important;margin-bottom:0px!important}@media (max-width:991px){#outhdr .js-clingify-locked .nav>:nth-child(4){display:none}}#outhdr .js-clingify-locked .nav>:nth-child(4) a{color:rgba(255,255,255,0)!important;background:url(background:url();background-repeat:no-repeat;background-size:contain;width:150px;height:60px;color:rgba(255,255,255,0);font-size:0;margin-top:10px;background-position:center;margin-bottom:5px;border-radius:0%;bottom:0;padding-bottom:0}#outhdr .js-clingify-locked .nav>:nth-child(4):hover{background:transparent!important}.mobile-logo{background:#426965}@media (max-width:991px){.sidr-inner .sidr-class-nav>:nth-child(5){display:none}}.cta-box{background-color:#426965}.cta-box p{color:#fff}.cta-box a{color:#fff}.cta-box a:hover{color:#379078}[data-typeid="popoutnotice"] .popout-notice .widget-label{background:yellow;color:green;padding:10px}[data-typeid="popoutnotice"] .popout-notice .widget-label:after{content:""}.cfs-popout{background:linear-gradient(120deg,#2e4a47,#568883 120%)!important;color:#fff;max-width:280px;padding:10px;border:0;border-left:8px solid #379078;outline:0 solid rgba(255,255,255,.2);outline-offset:0;box-shadow: .25em 1em rgba(0,0,0,.1)}.cfs-popout .close{width:;height:;text-shadow:none;color:#fff;opacity:1;padding:5px;margin:3px;background:#90374f;border-radius:100%;border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.3);font-family:raleway,sans-serif;font-size:75%;z-index:1}.cfs-popout .content-area .title{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.2);padding-bottom:10px;margin-top:2px;margin-bottom:10px;line-height:auto;opacity:1}.cfs-popout .content-area h3{font-weight:700;transition:all 1s ease;animation:pulse ease-in-out;animation-delay:3s}.cfs-popout .content-area h3:hover{text-shadow:0 0 2em #000}.cfs-popout .clickable{font-style:italic;border:1px solid #fff;display:inline-block;padding:4px 10px 6px;opacity:.5;transition:all .5s ease}.cfs-popout .clickable:hover{opacity:1}
#obitlist .row {
border: 0px;
border-bottom: 1px solid #a0fffa;
border-radius: 0px;
padding: 2em;
}
#obitlist .obphlst {
border-radius: 0px;
border: 0px solid #E0D9D9 !important;
padding: 0px;
box-shadow: 1px 1px 1px 1px rgba(50,50,50,0) !important;
background: #fff;
}
</style>
<style> #smart2881336973111-1 { color: !important; background-color: } #smart2881336973111-1:hover { color: !important; background-color: } #smart2881336973111-2 { color: !important; background-color: } #smart2881336973111-2:hover { color: !important; background-color: } #smart2881336973111-3 { color: !important; background-color: } #smart2881336973111-3:hover { color: !important; background-color: } </style>
<style scoped="">
#smart138401661026 .toplevel {
font-size: 15px;
padding: 20px 18px;
font-weight: normal;
}
#smart138401661026 .navbar-default .navbar-nav > li > a {
text-transform: uppercase;
}
</style>
<style>
/* Default arrow for menu items with submenus */
.sidr-class-dropdown > a::after {
content: '\25B6'; /* Unicode for a right-pointing triangle */
position: absolute;
right: 30px;
color: white;
transition: transform ;
}
/* Arrow rotates down when the submenu is open */
. > a::after {
content: '\25BC'; /* Unicode for a down-pointing triangle */
transform: rotate(0deg); /* Reset rotation */
}
/* Hide Sidr menu if the screen width is greater than 768px */
@media (min-width: 769px) {
#sidr-main-mn966128 {
display: none !important;
}
}
</style>
<style scoped="">
#smart3739698360101 .toplevel {
font-size: 15px;
padding: 20px 18px;
font-weight: normal;
}
#smart3739698360101 .navbar-default .navbar-nav > li > a {
text-transform: uppercase;
}
</style>
<style>
/* Default arrow for menu items with submenus */
.sidr-class-dropdown > a::after {
content: '\25B6'; /* Unicode for a right-pointing triangle */
position: absolute;
right: 30px;
color: white;
transition: transform ;
}
/* Arrow rotates down when the submenu is open */
. > a::after {
content: '\25BC'; /* Unicode for a down-pointing triangle */
transform: rotate(0deg); /* Reset rotation */
}
/* Hide Sidr menu if the screen width is greater than 768px */
@media (min-width: 769px) {
#sidr-main-mn184060 {
display: none !important;
}
}
</style>
<style> #smart2333938227047-1 { color: !important; background-color: } #smart2333938227047-1:hover { color: !important; background-color: } #smart2333938227047-2 { color: !important; background-color: } #smart2333938227047-2:hover { color: !important; background-color: } #smart2333938227047-3 { color: !important; background-color: } #smart2333938227047-3:hover { color: !important; background-color: } </style>
</head>
<body class="cs56-229">
<br>
<div id="site" class="container-fluid">
<div id="innersite" class="row">
<div id="block-outhdr" class="container-header dropzone">
<div class="row stockrow">
<div id="outhdr" class="col-xs-12 column zone">
<div class="inplace top-border" data-type="struct" data-typeid="FullCol" data-desc="Full Col" data-exec="1" id="struct1326593510923" data-o-bgid="" data-o-bgname="" data-o-src="">
<div class="row">
<div class="col-sm-12 column ui-sortable">
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<div class="row">
<div class="col-sm-12 column ui-sortable">
<div class="inplace" data-type="struct" data-typeid="Thirds2-1" data-desc="Thirds 2-1" data-exec="1" id="struct5203190405039">
<div class="row">
<div class="col-xs-4 column ui-sortable">
<div class="inplace pad-left pad-right smallmedia text-center pad-top pad-bottom" data-type="smart" data-typeid="socialmedia" data-desc="Social Media & Links" data-rtag="socialmedia" id="smart2881336973111" data-itemlabel="">
<div class="smbuttons"> <span class="btn btn-social btn-facebook"></span>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="inplace hidden-md hidden-lg mobile-logo" data-type="struct" data-typeid="ThreeCols" data-desc="Three Cols" data-exec="1" id="struct361897052728" data-o-bgid="" data-o-bgname="" data-o-src="" style="">
<div class="row">
<div class="col-sm-4 column ui-sortable"></div>
<div class="col-sm-4 col-xs-4 column ui-sortable">
<div class="inplace pad-left pad-right hidden-md hidden-lg pad-top pad-bottom" data-type="image" data-typeid="site" data-desc="Site Image" id="image3805680664636" style="" data-itemlabel=""><img alt="site image" class="img-responsive" src="" style="">
<div contenteditable="false" style="height: 0px;"></div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="col-sm-4 col-xs-8 column ui-sortable">
<div class="inplace menu-ip hidden-sm hidden-md hidden-lg transparent-menu" data-type="smart" data-typeid="menu" data-desc="Menu Bar" data-exec="1" data-rtag="menu" id="smart138401661026" data-itemlabel="" style="position: relative; z-index: 30; left: 0px; top: 0px;" data-rsttrans="1">
<div style="position: relative; z-index: 3;">
<div class="cfshznav" id="navbar-mn966128">
<div class="navbar cfsbdyfnt navbar-default" role="navigation"><br>
<div id="mn966128" class="navbar-collapse collapse mnujst centered">
<ul class="nav navbar-nav mnujst centered">
<li id="li-1-2" class="dropdown navbox"><span class="dropdown-toggle toplevel navlink ln-listings"></span>
<ul class="dropdown-menu">
<li class="navbox" id="li-1-2-0">
<span class="navlink ln-listings">Sliding x anchor reddit. I think tests by Long and Jim Titt bear this out.</span>
</li>
<li class="navbox" id="li-1-2-1">
<span class="navlink ln-listings"><br>
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<span class="dropdown-toggle toplevel navlink ln-about-us">Sliding x anchor reddit In the example with the double length sling and the cordalette quad, I would have just done a pre-equalized masterpoint with the cordalette and not used the sling at all. Then they are good to go. 66=10. I have used one 5+x/week for two or three years now and it's not showing any wear. don't get cordelette if you plan on trad climbing later, John Long is an awesome climber, 30 damn years ago, climbing has gone a long way since, cordelette is the slowest, most noob anchor ever, build your anchors out of slings, it will be much more versatile and faster in the future and getting familiar with this type of anchor in easy waters First off, I have a few styles of TR anchor that I use like: steel carabiners on the end of each chain (fast, convenient), or a sliding x with… Skip to main content Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home There is much controversy around the Sliding X due to the possible extension, and is sometimes referred to as the "Death X" by detractors. The jury is still I made myself the “ultimate” door anchor and would love to share the instructions with you. As stated above, they generally don’t distribute the load equally , although research performed by Evans demonstrates that under a dynamic load, they distribute the load better than so called “pre There was a helpful video I saw a couple years ago that was in a slideshow format that was put on by some canadian mountaineering club or something… A simple sliding X is ok, but you have the gear to make a better and arguably safer anchor in each of these. I think tests by Long and Jim Titt bear this out. There's a trade off between eliminating shock loading should one piece fail when using a cordelette, and equalization when using a Sliding X. Others say that the extension does not cause any significant shock load in the system. the no extension thing is not that important as you have 60m of stretchy rope out there so you are not really "shock loading" the anchor. The document has moved here. However, we move relatively slowly and it has time to adjust. An additional and in my opinion slightly better anchor for 2 bolts is the quad. I also don't have any sport draws, so it works out. . The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. The sliding X anchor does not satisfy the No Extension part of the SERENE anchor test. The sliding-X is useful for: - Equalizing two pieces of trad gear as part of a more complicated anchor - Equalizing two pieces of lead protection- Equalizing a two-bolt anchor for top roping See full list on climbtallpeaks. Dynamic equalization is a fool's errand. You can buy a full weight stack lat pulldown/low row for $650 any day on Craigslist or FB marketplace. That being said, I still use a master point anchor 90% of the time on trad. " Reading it, I got it right away, but hadn't thought of it. TLDR: Cordelettes are actually pretty bad at equalizing, the sliding x is much better. So let's go back to our calculated 17kN on the anchor. I'm surprised it isn't clearer in the Climbing Anchors book, but I don't have mine handy to review. It's a sliding X with limiter knots, for top rope use. The sliding x with limiter knots allows for equalization, while the figure 8 anchor is pre equalized when you can accurately judge where the second climber is coming up from, as long as the route doesn’t wander. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. A sliding X would provide better equalization but would also shock load you pro to at least some degree should one piece fail. The jury is still Yeah this isn’t really any safer than a plain sliding x because the knots aren’t limiting extension, and is actually weaker because of the knots in the material. The equalette is a better alternative to the cordelette, but in my experience it is good on paper and tough in actual practice. The home of Climbing on reddit. If one somehow blows a piece in their top rope anchor (again, set good pieces and this should never happen), the extension in the anchor is equivalent to the climber falling the same distance onto the rope. The other extreme is the A frames I see make of tree branches tied together on site; how do you possibly know if they are very strong, or just barely strong enough? They make cheap Chinese pulley attachments that work just as well for $30. 24 kN force while toproping the anchor would be just about at its breaking point. 26 votes, 28 comments. It's dealing with the rope, especially if you aren't switching leads. Do any of you guys double… Posted by u/trollhawk - 2 votes and 23 comments Looks like a variation of an tirolian anchor, which I use quite often on non bomber anchors, but with a 6mm aramid cord. Posted by u/handsomebutinsane - 1 vote and 15 comments NE - No Extension - Anchors should be built so that if one or more of the components fail the remaining components won't be shock loaded As you may have noticed the 2 quickdraws are even better at "redundancy" and "no extension" than a sliding x with one sling, but most climbers think a sling in a sliding x is safe enough. I believe that, due to clutch effect, in the split second of impact it really doesn't adjust as well as we hope it would. There is much controversy around the Sliding X due to the possible extension, and is sometimes referred to as the "Death X" by detractors. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. I usually use a few draws at the top for sport but a pre tied quad is very fast. I was practicing my sliding x's and wondered if there were any cons to doubling it up, as in clipping into two sliding x's. Some of the anchors in your photos are absolutely overly complicated. Thread the cord directly trough the pitons/what ever and in case one blows, the knot might slip(and even absorb energy while doing so), but the chance of the piece pulling through the knot is quite low. EXAMPLE: You set a sliding -X on a two bolt anchor and one of the bolts is rusty and blows out. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. Super fast and still self equalizing/load distributing. "We did a lot of testing with Sterling and found that binding was a bigger factor than first suspected, especially with sliding X, where a sling is basically hitched around the biner, less so on somethng like a quad, where anchor point biners are clipped though a comparatively wide loopMost of the elaborate rigging systems are of little use A sliding anchor with three points doesn't even theoretically distribute the load. And yes we are scared of falling. Reply reply Jason Schmaltz on Instagram: "Self equalizing anchor with a 120 cm sling #rockclimbing #climbing #climb #climber #climbinglife #climbinganchors #toprope #topropeclimbing #toproping #climbingoutside #outside #outdoorskills #bsa #boyscouts #knots #outdoorclimbing #leadclimbing #tradclimbing" 1. As inspiration i used this amazon product: Link But i find it to expensive so i decided to built my own version. 30 votes, 109 comments. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). 26 votes, 86 comments. You can double up around the tree depending on how long your anchor is. Setting up anchors isn't what takes time in multipitch. as something to connect to an anchor while standing on a ledge, however, while on rappel this would suffice. something like a sliding X might be preferable on routes which wonder considerably- it will adjust to be dynamically equalizing even if the direction of pull isn't directly below the anchor. Its biggest advantage is the ability to quickly and easily equalize (which means the weight/load is equally distributed across all points of the anchor). With this door anchor you can quickly and smoothly adjust your training position. Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. The sliding-X is designed to provide dynamic equalisation between a pair of redundant anchors with a single carabiner. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - No votes and 19 comments 1. It really doesn't work IRL due to clutch effect (except maybe with a slippery quad and anodized carabiners). The GGBY hang frames looked very strong, but they strike me as being like our old spanset sliding x anchors on highlines: very strong, but not optimized for our use. The cordelette is the go to for >2 piece anchors, bolts or not. Assuming a full connected loop anchor, I normally use a basket with no BFK which sort of resembles a sliding X. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. Even 3 bolt anchors with long slings get hairy with a sliding x. Nothing wrong with Sliding X on main Anchor, but please check it properly, YOUR SLIDING X IS NOT CORRECT!!! Each anchor has to have a rope from both sides of the schakle (your #1, and #4 do not have it) To set up the anchor really clean, I would not use main and backup schakle through both anchors. Would be fine for two bomber bolts (nothing else) but save yourself untying the knots after they’re weighted and just use the sliding x, or better yet two draws. You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. Shock loading a sliding x isn't as bad as previously thought. The main point will still be able to self equalize by sliding and, should one of the two points of protection pull, the remaining point of protection Basically I typically have a figure eight going into a locker at one anchor, the static is extended over the cliff and I double it back to create a doubled up figure eight on a bight (opposing lockers on the business end and a third locker behind to secure the double and for any shelf clipping) then my other anchor side is tied with a clove so Posted by u/Tradhappy - 4 votes and 10 comments Agreed. Climb safe! Posted by u/sodathief - No votes and 11 comments Or you can use a sliding X setup. beenOutsmarted is correct in this not being an ADT. Then set up a sliding x with a sling to belay from. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. Take my advice with some scepticism, and hopefully someone else will respond with more applicable experience. And of course it's up to judgment when to use each both. I know that is an extremely strong anchor configuration as well. You are aware of this, right? When you abseil you are seldom going to significantly increase the load on your anchor. Agreed non extension is far more important, especially with dyneema anchor. When I use the door anchor and pull on it, the anchor usually will slide back and forth causing damage to my door and trim. For the sliding X, I would clip all carabiners into the pocket of the X. the reason you want to have the middle loops a decent size is so your anchor equalizes and by shortening the distance between the knots you shorten the direction of pull degrees Here's a test from the DAV using a sliding X to equalize an anchor: 5m drop, 80kg, dynamic rope belayed with HMS on sliding X with 60cm legs. While the setup is not desirable, it seems to be a personal connection to an anchor. Nice and efficient changeovers. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. I've never used it for the reasons you point out, but the idea is still floating around out there. I would personally not be comfortable with this setup as a sole-source anchor. What I do like about the Sliding X is the second can just throw the two slings over their shoulder, and leave the biners on if they'd like. Business, Economics, and Finance. Some say the Sliding X's extension can shock load the anchor with enough force to break carabiners. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the The sliding X can play an important role in load distribution, for example to distribute load between two weaker pieces in a more complex anchor system like the one in the first photo under the section called "The Myth of Equalization" in that link. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. 24 kN So, if a climber dies from experiencing a 10. Sporto anchor in a can. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. The older style of belaying off the harness has the leader clipping a piece of the anchor to protect against a factor 2 fall, which could be near the maximum impact force of the rope (8-9kN), means that the clipped piece of the anchor is acting as a 2:1 pulley and can actually feel more force (1 & 2/3 maximum impact force due to frictional I was taught to clip personal anchor into one or both of the bolts (or clove hitch for second if it works better). We move about and the masterpoint seems to adjust. The sliding X had been shown to not dynamically equalize since sometime in the 1980s. 17/1. Jul 11, 2016 · Connecting 2 pieces is super easy: shoulder length sling, sliding X. This method offers extremely good equalization, but fails in reducing extension in the event of an anchor failure. 13 votes, 13 comments. Made this anchor, and thought I'd get some feedback on it. Alpine draw (single or double depending on bolt anchor spacing), clip bolts and extend sling, sliding X with a locker. If you put limiting knots on your sliding X then you will not necessarily overload the system in the case that an anchor bolt fails. When you climb, you need the anchor to withstand a factor 2 fall. 1. So my partner and I were going over our gear and we were talking about building anchors, and the point came up about locking… This is 100% a MYTH. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. This can be solved by adding "limiter knots" approximately 6" from either side of the sliding X's main point. The sliding-x anchor is a quick and easy anchor to build. I've seen this a few times in some books as a way to build a self-equilizing 3 point anchor (the 3 point extensions of a 2 point sliding x). Crypto Moved Permanently. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. The plates that go on it aren't super expensive either. I like it since it's quick, easy, uses only one draw, and is perfectly safe. If you've got two carabiners, you can achieve superior equalisation much more easily by just clipping one biner to each strand of the sling or one strand of each sling if you're doubling up. com Sliding-X: The sliding-x method for equalizing anchor points configures the sling in such a way that if one anchor point were to blow, the entire anchor would not completely fail. Hanging belayer weight 65kg. The take home message, don't take a 30m whipper on top rope with a static rope and a static belay, and your knotted sling anchor will be fine. You will need: Also tests have shown that even a percectly equalised sliding x system does not fully equalise the load simply becuase of the tensions involved. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. Jun 22, 2021 · However, note that an anchor with 2 unquestionably strong anchor pieces is the exact scenario where you don't need equalization! So, the one time it might be safe to use a quad, is the main time you don't need the only purported benefit of a quad (the equalization). How can I prevent this from happening? I live in a new build so all of my doors are hollow/cheap so I just plan to use on my house door. The blue cord in picture 4 is a… There is a difference between an anchor for abseilling and an anchor for climbing. Single leg failure gave 40% higher force than the same test with no extension. If you put the limiting knots in close enough you can make it so that the master point has only a couple of inches of slide, just enough to equalize, but not enough to cause a catastrophic failure. In short, anchors such as the Quad and the Sliding-X are frequently referred to as “self-equalizing” anchors, which is not entirely accurate. I build sliding anchors with 2 bomber pieces and a third piece clipped to a one as a backup, so it's not really an issue for me. Sliding X at anchors? 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